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Kowloon's generally heaving, frenetic atmosphere — a neon swirl of gritty markets and steaming crab-and-beer stalls — seems a world away from the dapper expat crowd of Hong Kong Island.
The bar at the Intercontinental Hotel is an ideal viewing spot for this colourful display. Nathan Road is the main thoroughfare through Kowloon and it s bright lights and department stores draw thousands of serious shoppers until midnight.
Lots of small streets around Nathan Road offer a more local experience. Temple Street is the most popular for rubbing shoulders with the masses. Running parallel to Nathan Road is charming Shanghai Street, where old milk teahouses , food stalls and kitchenware shops make a charming detour day or night.
Here you can c hange currenc y , buy electronics, get a massage , meet a few colourful characters and sample cheap, delicious South Asian cuisine. Around the corner, you can hedge your bets at various street games of mahjong, but be sure to know your tiles. If lost, in-the-know staff at The Ale Project thealeproject.
Wander east or hail a taxi past the flower market — busy setting up for the morning at this time of night — and you'll eventually find Kowloon Walled City , which was un-governed Chinese territory during British rule and home to hundreds of opium dens and brothels.